What is meze, and what should I order?

Meze is a long parade of small dishes — you don’t order mains. Expect halloumi, olives, tahini and dips, grilled sheftalia and souvla, kleftiko and fresh fish. Ask for fish-meze or meat-meze, arrive hungry and pace yourself: 15–30 dishes is normal, at about €20–30 a head.