A weekend in the Troodos mountains

Cyprus is not only a coastline. An hour inland the land rises into the Troodos massif, where the air cools, the pine forest closes in, and stone villages cling to the slopes as they have for centuries. In summer it is the island's refuge from the heat; in winter its peak even carries snow.

Where to go

Base yourself in a village such as Kakopetria, Platres or Omodos — the last a beauty of cobbled lanes and wine cellars. From there the days write themselves: a forest walk to the Caledonia waterfall, a tour of the painted churches, a tasting along the wine route, and long dinners of mountain trout and slow-cooked meat.

The pace

The mountains reward doing less. Let mornings be for walking while it is cool, afternoons for cellars and shade, and evenings for the kind of dinner that lasts. Bring a layer even in summer; the nights up here are kind.

A Troodos weekend is the perfect counterpoint to the coast. Tell our concierge the season and your pace, and we will choose the village and the stays.