Ayia Napa, out of season

The reputation arrives before you do: neon, noise, the long summer of the young. But come in November and the same streets belong to fishermen and grandmothers, to a monastery courtyard and a sea the colour of glass.

There is a case, quietly gaining supporters, that this is the real town, and the summer merely its loud cousin. The restaurants that stay open know it. So, increasingly, do the visitors who plan around the crowds rather than with them.