Commandaria, the oldest named wine, finds a new table

It is, by fair claim, the oldest named wine still made: pressed on these slopes when the knights held the island, sweet and amber and freighted with history. For decades it was a wine you were given, not one you chose.

That is changing. A handful of young winemakers are drying the grapes a little less, ageing a little longer, and pouring it against cheese and slow-cooked lamb rather than only cake. The past, it turns out, takes well to a new glass.